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WHAT WE HAVE IN COMMONFRENCH WORDS USED IN ENGLISH adieu ENGLISH WORDS USED IN FRENCH aftershave Fifteen Words You Need AAAAA Parisians (and, more generally, the French) are keen lovers of what might at first glance appear to be very disgusting delicacies. Food that resembles things that we shall refrain from naming here, out of respect for common decency. The andouillette is a perfect example: made from a pig’s digestive tract, which constitutes the andouillette’s skin, it resembles a big fat sausage. It is a mix of veal and pork, seasoned with spices and wine. A delectable dish, you’ll often find it preceded by the label “AAAAA,” which stands for Association Amicale des Amateurs d’Andouillette Authentique (Friendly Association of Lovers of Authentic Andouillette). Dig in, mouth open wide (but eyes shut tight)—you won’t regret it. LA BISE The French do la bise when saying hello and good-bye. That is to say they kiss, but not just any which way. To properly do la bise, both parties lean in so that only their cheeks graze, while making a kissing sound with their mouths; then this is repeated on the other side. Depending on where you are in France, the number of these kisses may vary. Whereas people in the South of France give four kisses, the Bretons stop at three. In Paris, you never do more than two. Note: one should never attempt to hug a Parisian. La bise may bring faces together, but bodies must stay apart. CARNET The Parisienne doesn’t keep a diary nor does she confide her innermost thoughts to an imaginary friend. Someone always ends up reading your diary and that someone is often the person you’d most likely want to keep it hidden from. However, every Parisienne has a notebook in her purse, preferably a black Moleskine, in which she’s constantly jotting down all sorts of things. Thoughts that cross her mind, a quote from a book that she liked, a to-do list, her favorite words, the lyrics of a song she wants to look up, the cell phone number of the guy she just met at a café, the previous night’s dream that suddenly came back to her … CAMEMBERT It’s a cliché but it’s true: all Parisians eat cheese. Whatever the time of day. Some like to start the morning with a piece of Gruyère, some enjoy a slice of toast topped with goat cheese as a mid-afternoon snack, while others consider Camembert with a glass of red wine as the perfect nightcap after an evening out at a club. But beware: cheese, especially Camembert, is an art of its own. It’s best to buy cheese from a cheese shop. But this is what even the biggest Parisian snobs will do: they’ll buy all their cheese at the best cheese shop in Paris, except for the Camembert, which they’ll buy at the supermarket. Preferably the Lepetit brand. Camembert has to be eaten runny, with the creamy heart oozing out of the rind. If not: don’t even consider it. LA PROVINCE France can be separated into two geographical categories: Paris, and the provinces. What makes up the provinces? Anywhere that’s not Paris. PISCINE Parisians often drink champagne. They know that this bitter, bubbly beverage can be the enemy of social events, especially when paired with petits fours (eaten to excess to stave off hunger)—and can cause what is known as “sewer breath.” So Parisians invented the concept of a piscine, a swimming pool, which involves drowning a few ice cubes in your champagne. This reduces heartburn and eliminates the bad breath. And best of all, this drink is considered sacrilege by most “normal” people and thus flatters the snobbery of Parisians, who love to be known for their bad manners. VIN ROUGE There is no such thing as a French person who doesn’t drink red wine. And, of course, the Parisienne has her own way of doing it. First of all—and this is very important—she chooses a favorite grape. She must be able to say, “I drink only Bordeaux, preferably Saint-Émilion” or, “You’ll never catch me drinking a Côtes du Rhône!” She would never follow the rituals of a wine taster: the swirling, the sniffing, her nose deep inside the glass, followed by a series of gargling noises most commonly heard at a dentist’s office. The Parisienne believes she was born with a “nose” or a “palate” and doesn’t need to do anything to pretend to be an expert. SAMEDI SOIR The true Parisienne never goes out on Saturday night when the city’s restaurants and nightclubs are overrun by drunk out-of-towners and students. Nothing significant would ever be scheduled for a Saturday, so there’s no chance she might miss out on something. On Saturday night, the Parisienne stays home and hosts intimate dinner parties. Once a month, she might go out for a cultural event: the theater or the opera, an evening at a museum, or a recently restored classic film at the local cinema. It is absolutely unthinkable to organize a party on a Saturday night, unless it happens to be the day on which your birthday falls. PSYCHANALYSTE Most Parisians have a psychanalyste and can talk about it at great length. Those who don’t are often “radically against it” and believe that neuroses are essential to the creative spirit. Either way, they all have a strong opinion about what one should and shouldn’t do. That is, is it better to see a man or a woman, depending on whether you’re a man or a woman? Is it preferable to see a Lacanian, a Freudian, or a Jungian? Is it necessary to pay for missed appointments or appointments scheduled on national holidays? However, Parisians will never divulge the details of their analysis, in the same way that they won’t tell you about their dreams—one should never talk too much about oneself. BOIRE UN VERRE Parisians love to go for a drink, which is similar to getting coffee, but takes place strictly after 6:00 p.m. Paris is a city filled with bistros and cafés, where you can while away the hours chatting. To invite someone out for a drink is to informally ask him or her to hang out with you while drinking alcohol. There doesn’t need to be a reason. It can last from one to two hours, during which any number of different things can be discussed, from the most intimate (your childhood traumas) to the most mundane (the weather). It is perfectly pleasant and is not a big commitment. SOUS-TEXTE The Parisienne spends much of her time analyzing the subtext: the true meaning behind people’s words. This can lead to irrational discussions about “what did he really mean when he said that?” or “what was my mother-in-law trying to tell me when she gave me that gift?” or “was that just a Freudian slip or …,” etc., etc., etc. The Parisienne believes that she can read other people’s minds better than anyone. She spends hours dissecting and pulling apart the words and acts of those around her, until everyone (herself included) is utterly exhausted. CROISSANTS Like Camembert, this cliché also happens to be true. The Parisienne loves to eat those crescent-shaped pastries that ooze butter and leave tiny flakes all over your face, clothes, and sheets. She eats them on Sunday mornings with her children. She eats them on Monday mornings before a stressful day at work. She eats them on vacation because without them it wouldn’t be a vacation. And why doesn’t she get fat from eating all these croissants? Because she’s decided that she has the right to eat croissants without anyone giving her shit about how many calories they contain. Merde alors! THÉÂTRE It is astonishing how many theaters there are in the French capital. Every night, hundreds, even thousands, of Parisians settle into red-velvet-draped rooms and uncomfortable seats to watch a classic at the Comédie Française or to catch a new comedian at a tiny venue in northern Paris. As with most large cities, Paris attracts its fair share of actors trying their luck. At least two or three times a year, a friend will drag the Parisienne to sit through her latest show in some trendy basement in a suburb. What a nightmare. As for the older Parisienne, she has season tickets to the national theaters to see the latest productions. It’s a habit that comes with age—in fact, that’s how she can tell she’s gotten old. MARCHÉ Each Parisian neighborhood has its own market. Some markets are daily, some can be covered, but the majority take place outdoors, twice a week, on a square. Parisians love going to the market. That’s where they find vegetables that still have soil on them, and snails hidden in the lettuce. They love to chat with the vendors and show that they are regulars. Depending on the neighborhood, markets can either be a total rip-off or a great deal. To go to a market, dress casually and carry a large basket over your shoulder. It is even acceptable to bring one of those shopping carts grandmothers use, and let your baguette stick out of it. Some markets have their own specialties. It’s also a great time to get to know the people in your neighborhood and grab a quick drink—boire un verre—before heading home to prepare lunch. Market days are a joyous time, often reminiscent of one’s childhood. PLOUC Pronounced {plūk}, refers to any attitude considered common, charmless, even vulgar, from the point of view of the Parisienne. It’s not a question of merit or social class: the first lady of France can be considered plouc if, for example, she calls her husband by his nickname in public. ADDRESS BOOK To truly live in your city, you need to know yourself well. Which means knowing your every need, desire, and problem, so that you can address them. Every place has its function. You wouldn’t take your great-aunt for lunch to the same place you take your lover. You too can find:
Somewhere slightly offbeat and a little strange, where you can wander when you need to forget the weight of your daily grind. A voyage through time. Galerie de Paléontologie et d’Anatomie Comparée 2, rue Buffon, 75005 Paris Museum
Legendary and old-fashioned, this restaurant is open at all hours. Actors rush here the minute they come off the stage and lovers can be seen gorging in the middle of the night. A la Cloche d’or 3, rue Mansart, 75009 Paris www.alaclochedor.com Restaurant
To steal a first kiss, nothing beats the half-shadows of a giant aquarium. L’Aquarium de Paris 5, avenue Albert de Mun, 75016 Paris www.cineaqua.com Aquarium
A neutral and chic Japanese tea salon for organizing a work appointment at the last minute. Toraya—Salon de Thé 10, rue Saint-Florentin, 75001 Paris Restaurant/Tea House
Always know a place in the city that is bursting with history, where you can organize a picnic on nice days or go for a romantic stroll. Les Arènes de Lutèce 47–59, rue Monge, 75005 Paris Monument
A vegetarian restaurant because, no matter where you live in the world, you always have a friend from L.A. visiting. And just because you love a medium-rare steak doesn’t mean you should ignore other people’s preferences. Tuck Shop 13, rue Lucien Sampaix, 75010 Paris www.facebook.com/tuckshopparis Restaurant
The store where shirts, dresses, and jackets instantly transform you into a native Parisienne. Indefinable, chic, and poetic. Thomsen-Paris 98, rue de Turenne, 75003 Paris www.thomsen-paris.com Fashion
A place where you rediscover your grandmother’s cooking. For the past twenty years, this has been one of Paris’s best-kept secrets, with its roasted vegetables à l’ancienne, steamed fish, and traditional meringues. To dine here is to get an education in good taste. Pétrelle 34, rue Pétrelle, 75009 Paris www.petrelle.fr Restaurant
If there’s a waiting list of a few weeks for an appointment with your naturopath, then it’s time to check out this little shop. You’ll be given a quick, efficient, and free diagnosis. Treat yourself to a selection of purifying, antioxidant, and stimulating plants. Herboristerie du Palais Royal, Michel Pierre 11, rue des Petits Champs, 75001 Paris www.herboristerie.com Health store
This is where to order the best cake because you should never feel guilty about your parenting skills (and as far as we can remember, our mothers never slaved away in the kitchen for six hours to make a birthday cake). Chez Bogato 7, rue Liancourt, 75014 Paris www.chezbogato.fr Bakery
A painting in front of which you arrange to meet your date so that he knows your true intentions. For example, Liberty Leading the People by Delacroix: a woman not afraid to show her breasts. Musée du Louvre 75001 Paris louvre.fr Museum
The most beautiful place in the city to have breakfast. It’s always good to begin the day with a blaze of glory. What’s more, it’s right next to the train station should you suddenly feel an overwhelming desire to get away. Le Train Bleu Gare de Lyon Place Louis-Armand, 75012 Paris le-train-bleu.com Restaurant
A city square that is actually a triangle, because it’s very erotic to kiss in a place that resembles the female sex. Place Dauphine, 75001 Paris Monument
A hotel restaurant where you can spend a lovely evening having dinner—with a bar where you can even make new friends if your date bores you. Hôtel Amour 8, rue Navarin, 75009 Paris hotelamourparis.fr Hotel
A boutique hotel nestled in the heart of Montmartre where you can have lunch away from prying eyes, in your own private garden. L’Hôtel Particulier 23, avenue Junot, 75018 Paris hotel-particulier-montmarte.com Hotel
The bar of a luxury hotel where you can have a beer with your brokenhearted best friend. Because if you can’t afford a room, you can at least indulge her with this. English Bar at the Hôtel Raphaël 17, avenue Kléber, 75116 Paris Hotel Bar
A historic library where you can spend all day preparing for an exam, writing, and feeling inspired. Bibliothèque Mazarine 23, quai de Conti, 75006 Paris bibliotheque-mazarine.fr Library
A neighborhood patisserie where you’ll run into students from the Sorbonne and their professors and where you can eat comfort food on the go or drink a delicious hot chocolate. Pâtisserie Viennoise 8, rue de l’École de Médecine, 75006 Paris Bistro
To have tea with your mother or your best friend. The garden is so lovely that you’re well within your rights to pretend you’re a heroine in a Jane Austen novel. Musée de la Vie Romantique 16, rue Chaptal, 75009 Paris Museum/Tea House
Your go- to morning-after spot to eat a delicious cheeseburger or put yourself back together with a Bloody Mary. Joe Allen 30, rue Pierre Lescot, 75001 Paris Restaurant
The tiny movie theater where you feel at home, particularly on a Sunday evening when you want to watch an old Italian classic. Le Reflet Médicis 3, rue Champollion, 75005 Paris Movie Theater
When you’re short on time and ideas, here’s a list of stores where you’re always sure to find a gift that will make someone happy. Listed in order from the most affordable to the most expensive. La Hune 6–18, rue de l’Abbaye, 75006 Paris Bookstore La Boutique de Louise 32, rue du Dragon, 75006 Paris Jewelry/Home Decor Cire Trudon 78, rue de Seine, 75006 Paris Candles 7 L 7, rue de Lille, 75007 Paris Fine Books Merci 111, boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 Paris Concept Store Astier de Villatte 173, rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris Home Decor
Even if you come away empty-handed, you’ll have the satisfaction of having traveled through time and space. What’s more, you’ll feel like you’ve had a good workout after all that bargain-hunting. Marché aux Puces de Clignancourt Porte de Clignancourt, 75018 Paris Flea Market
Your local deli that is open late on evenings and weekends, where you can always find good wine, cheese, fresh eggs, charcuterie, and homemade chocolates. In short, where you go when you invite friends over for dinner at the last minute. Julhès 54, rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010 Paris Grocery
A café that is an extension of your living room and your office at the same time. You greet the owner, plug in your laptop, order a lemonade, and ask them to lower the music … and naturally the food is simple and delicious. Restaurant Marcel 1, villa Léandre, 75018 Paris Café/Bistro
A terrace where you feel like a queen. Yes, you’ll pay more for your coffee for the privilege, but there’s no view like this anywhere else in the world—and that’s priceless. Le Café Marly 93, rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris Café/Restaurant
A dive of a bar where anything is possible. The temperature rises as soon as you walk through the door and the dark corners spark your imagination. L’Embuscade 47, rue de la Rochefoucauld, 75009 Paris Bar/Restaurant
For the remembrance of things past: turn back time to your childhood and discover the best cakes and tarts in Paris. Sweet or savory. Tarterie Les Petits Mitrons 26, rue Lepic, 75018 Paris Pastry Shop
After searching for vintage stuff, from clothes to old records and furniture in the best Parisian flea market, head to this restaurant to enjoy mussels, fries, and live gypsy jazz. La Chope des Puces 122, rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint-Ouen Flea Market Acknowledgments The authors would like to thank Alix Thomsen, who is at the heart of this book. Thanks to Christian Bragg, Dimitri Coste, Olivier Garros, Karl Lagerfeld, Johan Lindeberg for BLK DNM, Raphaël Lugassy, Stéphane Manel, Jean-Baptiste Mondino, Sara Nataf, Yarol Poupaud, So-Me, and Annemarieke Van Drimmelen for generously sharing their work with us, as well as Susanna Lea, Shelley Wanger, Naja Baldwin, and Françoise Gavalda. Also: Claire Berest, the Berest family, Diene Berete, Bastien Bernini, Fatou Biramah, Paul-Henry Bizon, Odara Carvalho, Carole Chŕetiennot (Le Café de Flore), Jeanne Damas, Julien Delajoux, Charlotte Delarue, Emmanuel Delavenne (Hôtel Amour), Emmanuelle Ducournau, Clémentine Goldszal, Camille Gorin, Sébastien Haas, Guillaume Halard, Mark Holgate, Cédric Jimenez, Gina Jimenez, Tina Ka, Nina Klein, Bertrand de Langeron, Magdalena Lawniczak, Pierre Le Ny, Francoise Lehmann, Pei Loi Koay, Téa and Peter Lundell, Ulrika Lundgren, Saif Mahdhi, the Maigret family, Gaëlle Mancina, Stéphane Manel, Tessa Manel, Jules Mas, Martine Mas, the Mas family, Jean-Philippe Moreaux, Roxana Nadim, Chloé Nataf, Fatou N’Diaye, Anne Sophie Nerrant, Nicolas Nerrant, Next Management Team, Priscille d’Orgeval, Eric Pfrunder Anton Poupaud, Yarol Poupaud, the Poupaud family, Charlotte Poutrelle, Elsa Rakotoson, Gérard Rambert, Rika magazine, Joachim Roncin, Christian de Rosnay, Xavier de Rosnay, Martine Saada, Colombe Schneck, Victor Saint Macary, Juliette Seydoux, Sonia Sieff, David Souffan, Samantha Taylor Pickett, Pascal Teixeira, Rodrigo Teixeira, Hervé Temime, Thomsen Paris, Anna Tordjman, Emilie Urbansky, Jean Vedreine (Le Mansart), Virginie Viard, Camille Vizzavona, Aude Walker, Mathilde Warnier, Adèle Wismes, Rebecca Zlotowski.
Date: 2016-01-14; view: 913
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