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FINE DRAWING ON HEAVY WOOLLEN MATERIAL

1. Use very fine sewing silk, and hold the edges of the tear flat upon the left forefinger.

2. Inserting the needle half-an-inch below the edge of the tear, run it through half the thickness of cloth, concealing the silk.

3. Inserting the needle in the opposite edge, run through the cloth in the same manner.

4. Draw the edges closely together.

5. Continue in this manner, being careful not to lap the edges.

6. Brush up the nap on the right side.

7. Dampen, and press on the wrong side with a hot iron.

It is better to do the darning on the wrong side; but, if the garment is lined, it may be done on the right side, being careful to insert the needle in the cloth exactly where it came out.

Another way to darn a tear on heavy material is to overcast the raw edges closely together, on the wrong side, then rub the seam open and darn lightly. Lay a wet cloth over the darn, and press. To make a perfectly flat seam on selvedges or heavy woolen cloth, the edges may be joined, as in Fig. 73.

Suggestions— The aim in darning a tear is to repair the rent so nicely that it can not be perceived. In darning twilled material, instead of taking the stitches alternately, make them in slanting rows to correspond with the twill. A rent should be repaired with fine thread or silk, matching the material in quality and color; if the same color can not be obtained, use lengthwise ravellings of the material. On fine woolen goods, hair can be used, and the needle should be threaded with the root. When darning with very fine thread or ravellings, use short needlefuls. As fine a needle as possible should be used.

Darning can be done on the right or wrong side, according to the material. For a tear in coarse material, the stitches should be taken more than one-fourth of an inch from the edge. The closeness of the rows of stitches depends upon the material and the tear. Edges should always be worked in and out alternatelyto secure them. Always protect the ends of a tear by darning beyond them. To keep the edges of a long tear even, it is best to begin to darn in the middle. When a darn is finished, it should be dampened and pressed on the wrong side, or a thin, damp cloth can be laid on the right side and pressed. To mend a rip in the seam of a kid-glove, overhand the edges together on the right side, using fine thread or sewing silk matching the color of the glove. If there is a strain coming on the seam, button-hole stitch the edges, and then overhand the purls of the stitches together.

· For what is cloth darning used?

· How should the tear be held?

· Where should the needle be inserted?

· What kind of stitches should be taken?

· What threads are taken up in the second row?

· Where should the needle be put at the third stitch in the fifth and succeeding rows?

· How should the stitches on a bias-darn be taken?

· Where should the needle be inserted in a corner-darn?

· Why is a knot made?

· How many rows of stitches are made at the corner?



· What is the aim in darning?

· What can be used instead of thread?

· What should be done after a darn is finished?

· How should a kid-glove be mended?

PATCHING

A patch is a piece of cloth, sewed on to a garment to repair it.

HEMMING ON A PATCH

Materials— No. 9 needle, No. 80 thread, scissors, pins, and a piece of cotton cloth, five inches square; for the patch, a piece of cloth four inches square.

Hemming on a patch

1. Crease the garment, represented by the large piece of cloth, through, and across the centre (Fig. 74).

2. Mark the centre by a pin-hole, and half-an-inch from the centre on each crease, make a pin-hole.

3. Crease a square on a line with the holes, and by a thread (Fig. 74, a, b, c, and d).

4. Cut out the square on the creasing, being careful about the corners.

5. Cut diagonally one-fourth of an inch at each corner (Fig. 74, 1, 2, 3, and4).

6. Fold and crease each edge of the hole, by a thread, and baste.

7. Cut off each corner of the patch one-fourth of an inch deep.

8. Holding the right side of the patch towards you, fold towards you, and crease, by a thread, one-fourth of an inch deep, on all four sides.

9. Crease through, and across the centre of the patch.

10. Place the garment on the desk, with the wrong side upwards.

11. Place the folded edges of the patch upon the garment, with the warp of the two pieces parallel.

12. Match the creases, and put in pins.

13. With each edge of the patch even with a thread of the garment, baste; turning the corners neatly, by tucking the extra fold underneath with the point of the needle.

14. Turn the other side towards you, and pin the edges of the hole down at each corner.

15. Baste, keeping each edge on a thread of the patch.

16. Hem the garment to the patch, being careful to firmly sew the corners, keeping them at right angles.

17. On the other side, hem the patch to the garment, allowing the stitches to appear as little as possible on the right side.

18. Take out the basting threads, and press on the wrong side.


Date: 2015-12-17; view: 629


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