GATHERING AND PLACING OF GATHERS

Gathering is done by running the needle in and out of the cloth, passing over twice as much cloth as is taken up. It is used in joining a full part to a plain part, as an apron to a band.

Materials— No. 8 needle, and a large blunt-pointed needle, No. 40 thread, and a piece of cotton cloth half-a-yard long and seven inches wide, hemmed at the sides and lower edge, and creased at the top.

Gathering.—Practice Drill No. 3 (page 15).

1. Find the middle of the creased edge, and mark the place by cutting a small notch in the edge (Fig. 28), or by making a cross-stitch with colored thread, one inch from the edge (Fig. 28).

2. Use a single or double thread a little longer than the space to be gathered. A double thread helps to keep the gathers in place, but is more apt to knot than a single thread.

3. Make a good-sized knot in the thread, so that it cannot slip through the cloth.

4. With the right side of the cloth towards you, hold the work in the left hand, between the thumb and cushion of the forefinger, as in Fig. 7 (page 15).

5. Insert the needle on the wrong side, so as to conceal the knot, and through the hem to keep the knot secure.

6. Sew on the crease, taking several stitches before drawing the needle through.

7. Do not count the threads, but take up about half as many as you skip, i.e., take up two threads and pass over four threads (Fig. 28).

8. If a knot, that cannot be untied, comes in the gathering thread, you will have to begin again.

9. When the seam is finished, remove the needle from the thread, and make a knot in this end of the thread.

10. Put a pin in vertically, close to the last stitch, taking up a few threads of the cloth.

11. Carefully draw up the thread, but not too tightly.

12. Wind the thread over the top, and under the point of the pin a number of times, crossing the threads at the middle of the pin (Fig. 29).

Placing or stroking of gathers—

1. With the right side towards you, begin at theleft-hand edge.

2. Hold the work between the left thumb and forefinger, as in Fig. 30, keeping the thumb below the gathering thread.

3. Put the point of the large needle under the gathering thread, holding it obliquely.

4. Press the needle towards the thumb, bringing the little plait under the thumb, and drawing the needle downwards.

5. Pinch it down tightly.

6. Continue in this way, putting the needle under each stitch.

Suggestions— The part to be gathered should be divided into halves, quarters, or eighths, according to the width. When the part is only divided into halves, a notch may be avoided by beginning the gathering in the middle.

In placing, the eye of the needle can be used instead of a blunt-pointed needle. The upper part of the gathers often need a stroke of the needle. If a scratching sound is made in placing, marks are apt to be left, and the cloth torn. In thin, stiff materials, instead of placing, many stitches can be taken on the needle at once, and before drawing the needle through, push them close together; holding firmly, pull them into place and press them.

· How is gathering done?

· When is it used?

· How is the cloth prepared?

· How long a thread should be used?

· What kind of a knot is required?

· How is the work held?

· How are the stitches taken?

· What is done after the seam is finished?

· How should the thread be drawn?

· How should the thread be wound?

· At which end should stroking begin?

· How is the work held in stroking?

· Where should the needle be put?

· What is done next?

Date: 2015-12-17; view: 585