RUNNING AND A BACKSTITCH

Running and a backstitch consists of two or more running stitches and a backstitch, taken alternately.

Materials— No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a half-yard strip of cotton cloth, doubled and basted.

Running and a backstitch—

1. Begin as for running.

2. Take three running stitches.

3. Take one backstitch.

4. Repeat, which will cause every third and fourth stitch to meet (Fig. 22).

Suggestions— Another method is to take three running stitches, making the third twice the length of the others, and then, putting the needle back to the middle of the last stitch, proceed as before. In this manner, the stitches on the right side resemble running, but on the wrong side there is a slight difference. Running and a backstitch is used when the seam needs to be sewed a little stronger than by running.

· Of what does running and a backstitch consist?

· When is running and a backstitch used?

OVERCASTING

Overcasting is done by taking loose stitches over the raw edge of cloth, to keep it from ravelling,

Materials— No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, and a stitched strip of cotton cloth.

Overcasting—Practice Drill No. 4 (page 16).

1. Find one-eighth of an inch and one-fourth of an inch on the measure (page 13).

2. Place the thumb-nail on the cloth one-eighth of an inch below the raw edge. The stitches are to be of this depth, and twice as far, or one-fourth of an inch, apart.

3. Make a small knot in the thread.

4. Hold the work over the left forefinger, as in Fig. 8 (page 16).

5. Begin at the right-hand end of the seam.

6. Insert the needle one-eighth of an inch below the edge, and between the edges of the seam, in order to hide the knot.

7. Pointing the needle towards the left shoulder, take the next stitch one-fourth of an inch to the left, and over both edges of the cloth.

8. Continue, taking up the same number of threads each time, being careful to make the spaces equal.

9. Do not draw the stitches tightly, but let them lie loosely over the edge (Fig. 23).

10. To fasten the thread, draw the needle nearly through the cloth where the next stitch should come. Turn over the cloth, withdraw the needle, and fasten the thread at this point, being careful that the stitches do not show on the right side.

11. To join the thread, make a small knot in the new thread, and put the needle between the edges of the seam, through the little hole, which was made when the needle was withdrawn.

Suggestions— Before overcasting, take out the basting threads and trim the edges evenly. All seams whose edges ravel should be overcast, and, therefore, a selvedge seam does not need to be overcast. Overcasting is very difficult to do nicely. The above directions are for overcasting on underclothes, etc. In overcasting a dress waist, or any fine material, smaller stitches should be taken. A bias seam should be overcast from the broad part to the narrow, or with the grain of the cloth.

· What is overcasting?

· How deep are the stitches taken?

· How far apart?

· How is the work held?

· At which end is the work begun?

· Where is the needle inserted? Why?

· How should the needle point?

· How far to the left should the next stitch be taken?

· How do you continue with the stitches?

· How is the thread fastened?

· How is the thread joined?

· What should be done before overcasting?

· When does a seam need to be overcast?

· How is a bias seam overcast?

OVERHANDING

Overhanding is done by sewing closely over two edges of cloth. The edge of the cloth may be either a selvedge or a creased fold.

Materials—No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, and either two selvedge strips or two folded strips of cotton cloth, carefully basted together with even stitches, near the edge.

Overhanding— Practice Drill No. 5 (page 17).

1. Have no knot in the thread.

2. Hold the work horizontally along the edge of the cushion of the left forefinger, and around the end of the finger, as in Fig. 9 (page 17).

3. Pointing the needle towards you, insert it at the edge nearest you, taking up two or three threads of the cloth.

4. Carefully draw the thread through, leaving half-an-inch of the thread.

5. Hold the half-inch of thread down with the thumb, so that it may be sewed over by the first stitches (Fig. 26, a).

6. Pointing the needle towards the chest, put it through both edges, taking up as little of the cloth as possible.

7. Take the stitches at the side of the cushion, and make them close and even, having perpendicular lines on the under side of the seam (Fig. 25), and oblique lines across the edges (Fig. 24).

8. Joining the thread (Fig. 26). When the thread becomes too short for use, draw the needle through the further edge of the cloth, as in taking a stitch. Insert the needle at the opposite edge, one-fourth of an inch to the left, taking up one thread of the cloth. Draw the thread through, and remove the needle. Have no knot in the new thread. Pointing the needle from you, insert it at the hole where the old thread is hanging. Draw the thread through until about an inch is left, and hold the end under the thumb. Pointing the needle towards you, insert it at the nearest edge, exactly opposite the last stitch on the other edge. Hold the ends under the thumb, while the threads along the top are being over-handed; afterwards, cut the ends off.

The thread can also be joined as in Fig. 27. If preferred, a knot can be used by beginning back and sewing over a few stitches, and afterwards cutting off the knot.

9. Finish the seam by turning the work around, and overhanding back four or five stitches; this will fasten the thread securely.

10. When the seam is finished, draw out the basting thread, open the seam, and rub it first on one side and then on the other with the thumb-nail until it is flat.

Suggestions—This stitch is sometimes called "top-sewing," also "over and over." The stitches should only be deep enough to hold, taking care to avoid making a ridge in the seam. The work will not pucker if the needle is pointed towards the chest, and the stitches are taken at the side of the cushion, not around the end of the finger. The necessity of taking the stitches properly is shown by overhanding two pieces of striped cloth. Either side of the sewing may be used as the right side. A seam in stiff material can be pressed open by holding it between the thumb and forefinger of each hand and rubbing.

· How is overhanding done?

· How should the work be held?

· How and where should the needle be inserted?

· What should be done with the end of the thread?

· How are the stitches made?

· Mention one way of joining the thread.

· How should the seam be finished?

· What is done after the seam is finished?

Date: 2015-12-17; view: 632