Part I—General Suggestions

Pre-1900

School Needlework, A Course of Study in Sewing designed for use in Schools

by Olive C. Hapgood, teacher of sewing in Boston Public Schools

Including general suggestions; plain sewing; ornamental stitches; and drafting, cutting, and making garments. A great book for learning basic stitches for hand sewing. (159 pages)

School Needlework by Olive C. Hapgood

Table of Contents—Long

"Learn the sound qualities of all useful stuffs and make everything of the best you can get, whatever its Price, and then, every day, make some little piece of useful clothing, sewn with your own fingers as strongly as it can be stitched, and embroider it or otherwise beautify it moderately with fine needlework, such as a girl may be proud of having done." — JOHN RUSKIN

Preface

Part I—General Suggestions

General Directions

Needles and Thread

Cloth

Scissors and Cutting

Part II—Plain Sewing

Plain Sewing

Drills

Canvas-Work

Creasing and Pinching

Basting

Stitching

Half-Backstitching

Hemming

Running

Running and a Backstitch

Overcasting

Overhanding

Gathering and Placing of Gathers

Double Gathering or Gauging

Shirring

Scalloped Edge

Honey-Combing or Smocking

Bindings

Facings or False Hems

Button-Holes

Buttons

Eyelet-Holes

Hooks and Eyes

Loops

Gussets

Placket

Tucking

Plaiting

Felling

French Seam

French Hem on Damask

Slip or Blind-Stitch

Edgings and Ruffles

Whipping

Stockinet Darning

Grafting

Stocking-Web Stitch

Cloth Darning

Patching

Bias Piecing

Piping

Corners Mitred

Loops of Tape

Part III—Ornamental Stitches

Hem-Stitch

Catch or Herringbone-Stitch

Feather-Stitch

Chain-Stitch

Kensington Outline-Stitch

Blanket-Stitch

Embroidery Knots

Marking

Part IV—Drafting, Cutting, and Making Garments

Two-Breadth Apron

Child's Bib

Pockets

Child's Drawers

Night-Dress Yoke

Child's Sack Tier

Gored Skirt

Drawers

Child's Waist

Hints for a Plain Basque

Doll's Patterns

Preface

THE importance of instruction in sewing in the Public School is now generally recognized. As manual training comes into greater prominence, new methods and helps are necessary. The demand for these was felt by the author, and this book is the result of practical experience in the class-room. Its purpose is to assist both teacher and pupil; lightening the teacher's labors by saving constant repetition, and giving the pupil a manual for reference, with the hope that the information thus acquired will assist in fitting her for the duties of life. Simplicity with completeness has been the aim throughout.

In the teacher's edition, the work is further supplemented by practical hints and suggestions as to successful methods of teaching the lessons, and by courses of study on Kindergarten, Primary, and Industrial Sewing. It also contains a list of articles obtainable for a sewing cabinet, and talks on kindred subjects.

The author wishes to acknowledge her indebtedness to the teachers who have so kindly assisted her, and to members of the School Board for their advice and interest in the preparation of the work.

Part I—General Suggestions

You may select a topic from this lesson Needles and Thread Cloth

DEAR GIRLS: You have now become old enough to prepare for woman's duties; one of these is the art of sewing, which we will take up as simply as possible. By following the given directions carefully, you will become able to dress your dolls, assist your mothers in mending, make garments, fancy articles, etc.

A convenient outfit for your school sewing consists of a bag large enough to hold certain necessary materials and the garment to be made. The bag should be made of dark or medium-colored cloth, so that it may not soil easily, and should have a strong gathering tape.

The following articles are needed—

1. Half a yard of bleached or half-bleached cotton cloth for a trial-piece and sample work.

2. Spools of white cotton, Nos. 40-80, also one of No. 50 colored cotton for basting.

3. A well-fitting silver or celluloid thimble, for the second finger of the right hand.

4. An emery bag to brighten the needle, when it does not go through the cloth easily.

5. A paper of Nos. 5-10 ground-down needles.

6. A pinball well filled with small pins.

7. A tape measure.

8. A piece of wax.

9. A pair of scissors, for girls in the higher classes.

Your name should be written with ink on the bag, paper of needles, spools of thread, and sample cloth. An easy way to remember the necessary articles is to let the hand represent the cloth; the thumb, the bag; the first finger, the spools of cotton; the second finger, the thimble and emery bag; the third finger, the needles and pins; and the fourth finger, the tape measure and wax.

Directions for putting away the work—

1. Before folding the work, run the needle in and out of the cloth, near the last stitches, so as to keep it secure and aid in finding the place at the next sewing lesson.

2. To fold the work, smooth it out, fold it lengthwise and narrow enough to go into the bag; then fold it the opposite way.

3. Put the thimble into the bag first, as it is apt to be forgotten.

4. After all the articles are placed in the bag, draw it up closely.

5. Wind the tape tightly around the bag until about six inches of it are left.

6. Place two fingers of the left hand over the coil of tape, and wind once over the fingers and around the bag.

7. As the fingers are withdrawn, slip the end of the tape through, and draw tightly.

If the above directions are carefully observed, no girl should report any missing article at the next lesson.

Directions for sewing—

1. Be very careful to have clean hands.

2. Sit in an erect position, never resting any part of the arm on the desk.

3. Do not fasten the work to the desk or knee.

4. Never sew without a thimble, either the top or the side of it can be used.

5. Do not put the work or thread to the mouth, as that will soil it.

6. In plain sewing, begin to sew at the end of the cloth, or at a seam,holding the part of the work not sewed in the left hand.

7. When scissors are not used, to break the thread place the left thumb-nail firmly over the last stitches; wind the thread around the right forefinger, and break the thread with the right thumb-nail.

8. Do all sewing nicely, making the stitches small and even, having the wrong side look as neat as possible, and sewing the corners with great care.

9. When obliged to take out the stitches, use the eye of a needle, and pick out one stitch at a time; in stitching, pick out the thread on one side, then on the other.

10. Before showing the work to the teacher, fasten the needle securely in the work.

We will call the fleshy or soft part of the forefinger a sewing cushion.

· What are the necessary articles for school sewing?

· Upon which finger is the thimble worn?

· For what is an emery bag used?

· Where should the needle be placed before putting away the work?

· What should first be put into the bag?

· Why should the bag be tied up carefully?

· In what condition should the hands be?

· How should a child sit while sewing?

· Should the work be fastened to the desk or knee?

· Should you ever sew without a thimble?

· Should the work or thread be put to the mouth? Why?

· In plain sewing where should you begin to sew?

· In which hand should the part of the work not sewed be held?

· How should the thread be broken?

· How ought all sewing to be done?

· Where should great care be taken?

· What is called the sewing cushion?

NEEDLES AND THREAD

Needles—

A needle is a small piece of steel, pointed at one end, and having an eye at the other to receive a thread.

Needles are of various sizes and shapes, according to the uses for which they are intended.

Three kinds of needles are used in sewing on cotton cloth: — sharps, ground-downs, and betweens; the sizes range from No.1, the largest, to No.12, the smallest. Sharps are long needles, ground-downs are shorter, and betweens are still shorter. Ground-downs are excellent for school use, as they do not bend or break easily. Betweens are used for heavy work.

Worsted and darning needles are used for yarn, and are of different sizes. Worsted needles have a long eye, and either a sharp or a blunt point. A very long needle is used in millinery work. A bodkin or tape needle has a long eye, and is used for running tape into a hem or casing.

Let us examine our paper of needles. It is assorted so that we may have needles suitable for all kinds of stitches. To open it, place a finger between the folds of the paper and separate them. Now, opening the sides and short ends which cover the needles, we find twenty-five needles in a secure case. Keep them in their places so that we may know the proper size to use for the thread or stitch. Beginning at the middle, we find three No. 5 needles, which should be used only with very coarse thread; they are suitable for sewing on boot-buttons, etc. The needles on each side are alike, so following down one side, we find two No. 6 needles, used for sewing on coarse materials; next are three No. 7 needles, suitable for hemming on towels, etc; then there are three No. 8 needles, for stitching; next are two No. 9 needles, used in hemming cotton cloth; and the last is a No. 10 needle, for very fine work.

After taking out a needle, fold and tie up the paper so that none may drop out. Never use a bent needle, as it makes uneven stitches. In passing a needle, hand the eye of the needle to the person, keeping the point towards yourself.

Thread—

A small twist made from flax, silk, cotton, or wool, is called thread. Thread made from flax is called linen thread, and is very strong. Thread made from silk is called silk or twist, and is used when sewing on nice textures. Cotton thread can be obtained in many numbers, and is used when sewing on wash goods; the finer the thread, the higher the number. Thread made from wool is called yarn, worsted, zephyr, etc., and is used for darning, canvas-work, and fancy-work.

A new spool of thread can be unfastened by slipping a pin under the thread, where it is caught in the wood. To unwind the thread, hold the spool in the left hand, with the end of the thread between two fingers. Unwind the thread until it is of the required length. Break it by holding it securely in each hand, and snapping it across the ends of the thumbs. When not using a spool of thread, keep the end of the thread fastened in the wood.

Use a piece of thread the length of the desk, or about as long as the arm. When using very fine thread, take a shorter needleful. If the thread kinks, remove the needle, and beginning at the work, draw the thread tightly between the thumb-nail and the end of the forefinger. To prevent thread from kinking, thread the needle with the end that hangs from the spool. When using double thread, as in gathering, sewing on buttons, etc., before making the knot, draw the double thread, beginning at the needle, across the wax.

Threading the needle—

1. Sit erect, bringing the needle and thread as close to the eyes as necessary.

2. Roll the end of the thread between the thumb and cushion of the forefinger, so as to twist it tightly.

3. Hold the needle steadily between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, with the eye a little above.

4. Take the end of the thread between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, letting about half-an-inch protrude, and put the thread through the eye of the needle.

If preferred, the thread can be held in the left hand, and the eye of the needle passed over it.

To aid in threading a round-eyed needle with worsted or loosely twisted thread, a few fibres of cotton-batting or a fine thread can be rolled over the end. Waxing the end of the thread before rolling it, is also helpful.

Threading a long-eyed needle—

1. Hold the end of the zephyr between the left thumb and forefinger, allowing half-an-inch to show.

2. Place the pointed end of the needle on the cushion of the forefinger, and over the zephyr.

3. With the left thumb fold the end of the zephyr tightly over the needle.

4. Withdraw the needle, and pass the eye of the needle over the loop of zephyr.

Knots—

To make a knot, as in Fig. 1, wind the thread around two or three fingers, and crossing it, put the end through the loop.

Date: 2015-12-17; view: 478