Fig.1. To adjust width Fig.2. To adjust lingth.

HOW TO USE THE PATTERNS

The patterns given in this book are scaled. There are a number of different ways to enlarge them. For either of the two methods described here, you will need a pencil, a ruler, transparent tape and a roll of wrapping or shelf paper. If all the patterns for a particular garment piece (such as the bodice) are in the same scale, the patterns can be enlarged by the grid method. An easy way to check whether they are in the same scale is to measure the line running along the right-hand side of the pattern. Divide this measurement into the number given at the bottom of the line. If the patterns are in the same scale, your results should be roughly the same for each piece. If the pattern pieces are to more than one scale or size, be sure to read the instructions for "The Grading Method."

The Grid Method

Begin with a major body measurement such as the waist. Next, add an appropriate amount of wearing ease (for most waistlines of this period, about ½" is appropriate). Now, in order to figure your scale, compare this total measure- ment with the corresponding measurement on the scaled pattern; be sure to take seam allowances and pattern pieces that represent ½" or less of the garment into consid- eration. If, for example, the intended wearer has a 23½" waist, plus ½" for wearing ease, and the scaled pattern's waist measurement is 2", the proper scale to use would be 1"/12". In other words, every inch on the scaled pattern would equal 12" on the full-size pattern.

Next, draw a grid on top of the scaled pattern (in this example, a 1" grid), and then draw a grid on the shelf paper (in this example, a 12" grid).

Now, transfer the lines of the scaled pattern onto the shelf paper, square by square. Whenever necessary, tape the shelf paper together to make it large enough for a full-size pattern.

The Grading Method

When garments illustrated show pattern pieces given in more than one scale, you should use the grading method. Notice that each pattern includes sets of numbers running along all pattern lines. The numbers running along the right-hand edge of the pattern indicate length measure­ments; the other numbers indicate the width. Draw the pattern lines onto your paper, following all measurements carefully. It may be helpful to draw a 1" grid onto the paper before transferring pattern lines onto it, but it is not neces­sary. Where curves are shown, you may draw them free­hand or with the aid of a French curve (available at dress­making stores).

Once you have carefully drawn out each pattern piece according to the measurements given, you have created a "standard size" sloper for the garment. This, by modern standards, is quite small and win need to be graded to fit the modern figure. If you are unfamiliar with the practice of grading patterns, follow the instructions given below or consult a dressmakingbook at your local library.

To Adjust Width: Changes will almost certainly need to be made in the width of your pattern. To determine how much change is necessary, subtract your actual measurements (including wearing ease and seam allowances) from the corresponding pattern measurements. For example, if your waist measurement is 25½" and the pattern measure­ment is 19", you need to enlarge your pattern by 6 ½" in the waist area. Now, divide the amount you must enlarge the pattern (in our example 6½") by the number of bodice pattern pieces (for our example, say 4). This will tell you how much to enlarge each pattern piece (in our example, 1⅝"). Slash the pattern pieces as illustrated in Fig.1, and spread in a triangular fashion. Place a piece of paper behind the slashed section and tape it into place.

Fig.1. To adjust width Fig.2. To adjust lingth.

To take in the pattern, make a tuck in the pattern as shown in Fig. 1 and redraw the cutting and seam lines. To Adjust Length: If your garment needs adjustment in length, either fold it (if too long) or slash and spread it (if too short) (Fig. 2).

Remember:

• In most cases, allowances for closures (hooks and eyes, buttons, plackets) and facings are not included on the pattern and must be added before cutting out the pattern in fabric.

• Carefully label all pattern pieces and transfer any construction markings to the full-size pattern.

• If a corset and other undergarments are to be worn, the body measurements should be taken in these under­
garments.

• It may be necessary to use different scales for different parts of each garment even if the pattern pieces for each part are in the same scale. For instance, the bodice may require a larger scale than the skirt, especially if a corset will not be worn beneath the finished garment.

• The length of most skirt patterns is not proportional. Regulate the length of skirts by personal length mea­
surements.

• Always remember to add wearing ease to your body measurements before figuring the scale on which to en­ large your pattern. If you make your pattern to your exact measurements, the resulting garment will be skin tight, and will probably rip with every movement. Ease must be added to make clothes fit comfortably. The typical 1890s waistline had about ½" to 1" ease, and the average snugfitting bustline had about 2½" of ease.

Because there is no "standard" body, testing and per­ fecting the pattern in muslin before cutting out the fashion
fabric is advised.

GENERAL DIRECTION.

TO TAKE MEASURES.

Great care should be taken in getting measures. (See illustration be­low.)

TAKE BUST MEASURE

with the tape meas­ure straight around the largest part of the bust, as shown below, high up under the arms; take a snug, close measure neither too tight nor too loose.

Date: 2016-04-22; view: 398