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General information

All models have a 12-volt electrical system charged by a three-phase alternator with a separate regulator/rectifier.

The regulator maintains the charging system output within the specified range to prevent overcharging, and the rectifier converts the ac (alternating current) output of the alternator to dc (direct current) to power the lights and other components and to charge the battery. The alternator is mounted inside the left-hand engine cover

The starting system includes the starter motor, the relay, the battery and the various wires and switches. If the engine kill switch is in the RUN position and the ignition (main) switch is ON, the starting system will allow the starter motor to operate only if the transmission is in neutral (neutral light on) or, if the transmission is in gear, if the clutch lever is pulled into the handlebar and the sidestand is up. The starter motor is mounted on the engine unit behind the cylinders. Note:Keep in mind that electrical parts, once purchased, cannot be returned. To avoid unnecessary expense, make very sure the faulty component hasbeen positively identified before buying a new part.

2 Electrical system-

fault finding

Warning: To prevent the risk of ri\ short circuits, the ignition (main)

A

switch must always be OFF and the battery negative (-ve) terminal should be disconnected before any of the bike's other electrical components are disturbed. Don't forget to reconnect the terminal securely once work is finished or if battery power is needed for circuit testing.

1 A typical electrical circuit consists of an electrical component, the switches, relays, etc.


related to that component and the wiring and connectors that hook the component to both the battery and the frame. To aid in locating a problem in any electrical circuit, refer to the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter.

3.2 Battery cover is retained by a single bolt (arrowed)

2 Before tackling any faulty electrical circuit, first study the wiring diagram (see end of this Chapter) thoroughly to get a complete picture of what makes up that individual circuit. Trouble spots, for instance, can often be narrowed down by noting if other components related to that circuit are operating properly or not. If several components or circuits fail at one time, chances are the fault lies in the fuse or earth (ground) connection, as several circuits are often routed through the same fuse and earth (ground) connections.

3 Electrical problems often stem from simple causes, such as loose or corroded connections or a blown fuse. Prior to any electrical fault finding, always visually check the condition of the fuse, wires and connections in the problem circuit. Intermittent failures can be especially frustrating, since you can't always duplicate the failure when it's convenient to test. In such situations, a good practice is to clean all connections in the affected circuit, whether or not they appear to be good. All of the connections and wires should also be wiggled to check for looseness which can cause intermittent failure.



4 If testing instruments are going to be utilised, use the wiring diagram to plan where you will make the necessary connections in


order to accurately pinpoint the trouble spot. 5 The basic tools needed for electrical fault finding include a battery and bulb test circuit, a continuity tester, a test light, and a jumper wire. A multimeter capable of reading volts, ohms and amps is also very useful as an alternative to the above, and is necessary for performing more extensive tests and checks.

 

    Refer to Fault Finding
  hint Equipment in the Reference section for details of how to
    use electrical test equipment.

3 Battery- removal, installation inspection and maintenance |k

Caution: Be extremely careful when handling or working around the battery. The electrolyte is very caustic and an explosive gas (hydrogen) is given off when the battery is charging.


Date: 2016-01-14; view: 539


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