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As serious injury could result.

9 Using a wooden or plastic tool, remove the
dust seal from the caliper bore (see
illustration 3.10).
Discard it as a new one
must be used on installation. If a metal tool is
being used, take great care not to damage the
caliper bore. Remove and discard the piston
seal in the same way.

10 Clean the piston and bore with denatured
alcohol, clean brake fluid or brake system
cleaner. If compressed air is available, use it
to dry the parts thoroughly (make sure it's
filtered and unlubricated).

Caution: Do not, under any circumstances, use a petroleum-based solvent to clean brake parts.

11Inspect the caliper bore and piston for
Signs of corrosion, nicks and burrs and loss of
plating. If surface defects are present, the
caliper assembly must be renewed. If the
necessary measuring equipment is available,
compare the dimensions of the piston and
bore to those given in the Specifications


section of this Chapter, renewing any component that is worn beyond the service limit. If the caliper is in bad shape the master cylinder should also be checked.

12 Clean all traces of corrosion from the slider pins and their bores in the caliper and bracket. Renew the rubber boots if they are damaged or deteriorated.

13Lubricate the new piston seal with clean brake fluid and install it in its groove in the caliper bore.

14 Lubricate the new dust seal with clean brake fluid and install it in its groove in the caliper bore.

15 Lubricate the piston with clean brake fluid and install it closed-end first into the caliper bore. Using your thumbs, push the piston all the way in, making sure it enters the bore squarely.

16 If removed, fit the pad spring in the caliper and the pad plate on the bracket, making sure they are correctly positioned as noted on removal. Apply a smear of copper-based grease to the slider pins, fit the slider pin boots and then slide the caliper onto the bracket and check that it is able to move freely.


Brakes, wheels and tyres 7*11


Installation

17 If the caliper has not been overhauled,
engage the lug on the caliper bracket with the
lug on the swingarm and install the rear wheel.
Check that the brake pads sit squarely each
side of the disc. Install the bolt securing the
rear brake hose clamp to the swingarm and
tighten the bolt securely.

18 If the caliper has been overhauled,
engage the lug on the caliper bracket with the
lug on the swingarm and install the rear wheel,
then ease the caliper apart enough to fit the
brake pads (see Section 6).

19 Connect the brake hose to the caliper, using new sealing washers on each side of the banjo fitting. Align the hose as noted on removal (see illustration 7.3).Tighten the banjo bolt to the torque setting specified at the beginning of this Chapter. Top-up the master cylinder reservoir with DOT 4 brake fluid and flush the hydraulic system (see Section 11).

20 Operate the brake pedal several times to bring the pads into contact with the disc. Check that there are no fluid leaks and thoroughly test the operation of the brake before riding the motorcycle.



8 Rear brake disc (V.W.SW.X, % SX,Yand SY models)-

inspection, removal and installation ^

Inspection

1 Visually inspect the surface of the disc for score marks and other damage. Light scratches are normal after use and won't affect brake operation, but deep grooves and heavy score marks will reduce braking efficiency and accelerate pad wear. If the disc is badly grooved it must be machined or renewed.

2 To check disc runout, position the motorcycle on its centre stand and support it so that the rear wheel is raised off the ground. Mount a dial gauge on the swingarm, with the gauge plunger touching the surface of the disc about 10 mm from the outer edge (seeillustration 4.2). Rotate the wheel and watch the gauge needle, comparing the reading with the limit listed in the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter. If the runout is greater than the service limit, check the wheel bearings for play (see Chapter 1). If the bearings are worn, renew them (see Section 17) and repeat this check. If the disc runout is still excessive, the disc will have to be renewed, although machining by an engineer may be possible.

3 The disc must not be machined or allowed to wear down to a thickness less than the service limit listed in this Chapter's Specifications and as marked on the disc itself (see illustration).The thickness of the disc can be checked with a micrometer (see


illustration 4.3b).If the thickness of the disc is less than the service limit, it must be renewed.

Removal

4 Remove the rear wheel (see Section 16). Caution: Do not lay the wheel down and allow it to rest on the disc - the disc could become warped.

5 Mark the relationship of the disc to the hub, so it can be installed in the same position. Unscrew the disc retaining bolts, loosening them a little at a time in a criss-cross pattern to avoid distorting the disc, then remove the disc from the wheel. Clean the threads of the bolts.

Installation

6 Place the disc on the hub, making sure the marked side is on the outside. Align the previously applied reference marks if reinstalling the original disc.

7 Apply a suitable non-permanent thread locking compound to the bolt threads then install the bolts and tighten them in a criss­cross pattern evenly and progressively to the torque setting specified at the beginning of this Chapter.

8 Clean all grease off the brake disc using acetone or brake system cleaner. If a new brake disc has been installed, remove any protective coating from its working surfaces.

9 Install the rear wheel (see Section 16).

10 Operate the brake pedal several times to
bring the pads into contact with the disc.
Check the operation of the brake before riding
the motorcycle.

9 Rear brake master cylinder (V, &> W, SW,X,SX,Y and SY models) «

- removal, overhaul and installation ^


8.3 The minimum disc thicknessis marked on thedisc

1 If the brake pedal does not feel firm when the brake is applied, and the hydraulic hose is in good condition and bleeding the brake does not help (see Section 11), or if the master cylinder is leaking fluid, then master cylinder overhaul is recommended.


2 Before disassembling the master cylinder,
read through the entire procedure and make
sure that you have obtained all the new parts
required including some new DOT 4 brake
fluid, some clean rags and internal circlip
pliers. Note:If the master cylinder is just being
displaced and not completely removed from
the motorcycle, do not drain the brake fluid or
disconnect the brake hose.

Caution: Disassembly, overhaul and reassembly of the brake master cylinder must be done in a spotlessly clean work area to avoid contamination and possible failure of the brake hydraulic system components. To prevent damage to the paint from spilled brake fluid, always cover the surrounding components when working on the master cylinder.

Removal

3 Remove the right-hand frame side panel (see Chapter 8). Trace the wiring from the brake light switch and disconnect it at the black 2-pin connector.

4 Unscrew the nut and bolt securing the silencer to the footrest bracket and remove the nut. bolt and washer. Place a wood block or similar under the silencer end to prevent strain on its other mounting points.

5 Unscrew the bolt securing the rear brake fluid reservoir to the frame. Unscrew the reservoir top, remove the diaphragm plate and diaphragm and drain the fluid into a suitable container. Release the clip securing the reservoir to the hose and remove the reservoir. Cover the open end of the hose to prevent dirt entering the system. Wipe any remaining fluid out of the reservoir with a clean rag. Inspect the reservoir cover diaphragm and renew it if it is damaged or deteriorated. Refit the diaphragm, diaphragm plate and top for safe keeping.

6 Unscrew the brake hose banjo bolt on the top of the master cylinder and separate the hose from the master cylinder, noting its alignment (see illustration).Discard the sealing washers as they must be renewed. Wrap a plastic bag tightly around the end of the hose to stop dirt entering the system and secure the hose in an upright position to prevent fluid spills.

7 Unscrew the two footrest bracket bolts and


7*12 Brakes, wheels and tyres


 
 


1 Reservoir hose
2 Reservoir
hose clamp
3 Reservoir
hose union
4 O-ring
5 Clevis pin
6 Clevis
7 Clevis base nut
8 Locknut
9 Rubber boot
10 Circlip
11 Pushrod
12 Piston/seal assembly
13 Spring
14 Master cylinder
15 Split pin
9.7 Support the reservoir and lift the bracket away from the bike. Note brake light switch spring (arrowed) lift the bracket away from the motorcycle (seeillustration). 8 Disconnect the brake light switch spring from the lug on the pedal (see illustration 9.7). 9Remove the split pin from the clevis pin securing the brake pedal to the brake master cylinder pushrod. Remove the clevis pin to separate the rod from the pedal. Discard the split pin as a new one must be used (see illustration).

Date: 2016-01-14; view: 589


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Brake light switch wiring connectors (arrowed) | Remove split pin (A) and clevis pin (B)
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