Home Random Page


CATEGORIES:

BiologyChemistryConstructionCultureEcologyEconomyElectronicsFinanceGeographyHistoryInformaticsLawMathematicsMechanicsMedicineOtherPedagogyPhilosophyPhysicsPolicyPsychologySociologySportTourism






B. Patch-building Tips

I divide my tone hunt into several groups: amp selection, cab/mic selection, pre-EQ'ing, gain staging, amp EQ'ing, post-EQ'ing, amp DEP's, cab DEP's, and effects. I usually approach any patch in that order, but as the patch comes together I start jumping around and making various improvements.

I start by choosing what I think is the ideal amp model - that also clues me in to whether I want to pre-EQ the amp, and how I want to do so. For instance, I know if I want a really warm tone, I'll use a Tube Drive, and if I want it to have a nice crunch I'll use a Marshall amp. Try to familiarize yourself with how each amp is affected by pre-EQ'ing using EQ's, the Tube Drive, and the Screamer effects - those are the main filter/boosts you're likely going to use, and they have more impact on tone than the Amp or Cab DEP's, post-EQ'ing, or other effects. If I'm going for an artist's tone, I try to match his rig as a starting point.

For a direct tone, if you need a lot of effects (or expensive effects like pitch shifting or spring reverb), you probably won't have enough DSP to do a dual amp setup, so you can use dual cabs. Otherwise, I recommend you try a dual cab configuration. It takes a bit more time to dial in, but the tone is worth the payoff. See here for instructions to set that up. If you are running to a real amp or using external IR's, don't worry about dual cabs, or dual amps in general.

I add effects to my patch in the order of importance. That way if I run into DSP limit errors, I don't need to rebuild my patch. Be aware of how expensive each effect/amp is DSP-wise. You can find that info here. Be aware of common substitutions or other ways to save DSP.

Top of Quick Guide

C. High-Gain Amp Roundup

For more detail on amp models, see the Distortion/Amp Tone page.

Plexi Bright

Think early Van Halen - classic Marshall tone. Great amp model with few pitfalls. Sounds even better with a Tube Drive in front. All the distortion is coming from the power section, so the way you EQ it will affect the distortion tone.

Park 75

Similar to the Plexi, but with a bit more of a vintage vibe - it's hard to a djent palm mute out of it. Makes for a good AC/DC tone. Again, all the distortion is in the power amp, so watch your EQ, especially the presence. Too much presence sounds like the amp is damaged.

J-800

Classic high-gain Marshall hair metal tone. This isn't the best model, IMO. It has more gain than the Park and Plexi, but also less dynamic response and sounds a little less quality. I like to boost the Master DEP to about 65% to get more power amp distortion, which gives it more bite. Again, EQ'ing matters, but presence is more forgiving. Sounds good with a Tube Drive or Screamer in front. I use it for Megadeth tones.


 

Uber

By default this model is too muddy for my tastes. I always pre-EQ it, filtering out some low end. I find boosting the Hum DEP a touch gets it in a Mesa/Boogie Mark II/IV ballpark. Boosting it a bit more gets it closer to a 5150. After making these tweaks, it's one of my favorite amp models, considering I love the Mesa and Peavey amps I just mentioned.



Treadplate

Very aggressive tone. The "full" model has much more bite than the "pre" model. If you prefer the "pre", try backing off the Master DEP when using the "full" model to find the sweet spot. It's difficult to really change the tone by simple pre-EQ'ing, but a Screamer can tighten it up nicely. I find boosting some warm (lower) mids before the amp can make it a bit less agro and have a sweeter tone. The bass it puts out is obnoxious. I find I need to use a Parametric EQ with Freq at 15% and Gain around 35% to get it in the same ballparks as other amp models. In general this amp model is too aggressive for my tastes, but it is great when tamed.

F-ball

Great amp model - captures the distinct ENGL tone. Good on its own but can be made more aggressive and djenty with a presence-emphasis by pre-EQ'ing out some bass. Goes well with a Screamer in front. I make this amp my go-to for a nice modern metal tone.

Elektrik

Not a fan. Seems like a watered-down version of the Uber. The initial draw is that it doesn't have the muddiness issue the Uber does, but once you tweak the Uber to get rid of that, the Uber sounds better than this model. Also, the default setting for the Master DEP is 100%, which I think sounds awful - if you're gonna use it, make that's the first thing you adjust.

SLO Overdrive

I think of this as the Plexi on roids. It's a bit looser than some of the other amps, so I find I don't use it much for a metal tone; but it has a great hard rock tone. This model responds oddly to boosts, and its EQ controls don't impact the tone as much as you'd expect.


 

Doom

Think sludgy Marshall. This is generally not my thing, so I don't use this model much. It takes boosts well, and you can get a very wide range of tones from it.

Epic

Very bizarre model here. I find the preamp distortion harsh and broken up or splatty. I keep Drive low, but the poweramp distortion is quite smooth, focused, and tight. So that's what I like to use to get a good tone from this amp, which makes dialing it in more difficult. The tone is very clear and dry - it's great for getting a heavy distortion tone that can chug but you also want to clearly hear every note, even inside big chords.

Top of Quick Guide

D. Cabs/Mics Roundup

For more detail on cabs/mics, see the Cab/Mic Selection Page.

Hiway 4x12

This is my go-to cab. Of all the 4x12's, it seems to be the only one that sounds like real guitar speakers. It's got a well-defined midrange and high-end - nothing sounds washed out. I like to use it with the SM 57's, preferably on axis. It can be a little harsh on the high end, but that's easily filtered out by the Mid-Focus EQ. When I use dual cabs, I always make this one of the cabs. I like to reduce the Res. Level DEP a bit to make it even crispier.

XXL V30 4x12

Something sounds a bit off on this cab by itself, like the mids and highs are a little washed out. Boosting Res Level DEP up a bit helps bring out some mids. Still, the main draw of this cab is its huge low-end response. It's very punchy, making it great for a metalcore tone. But it can also be a little too boomy, requiring EQ to remove some low-end drone. By itself, the 409 Dyn mic tends to help bring out a decent high-end response from it. I like to use it in combination with the Hiway in a dual cab configuration using a SM 57 mic.


 

Other 4x12

The Greenbacks and Treadplate cabs have a high quality to them, but they're not as good as the Hiway. The Greenbacks do have a more unique sound, which is worth experimenting with. The Treadplate is very bright and louder than the other cabs, which needs to be compensated for. The Blackbacks and T-75 cabs sound fake and not worth using to me, but they also have their own unique tones which are worth exploring. The T-75's might be good for a vintage tone. The Uber cab is good, but it's kind of in no-man's land. I'd use it for the same applications I'd use the Hiway or Treadplate for, but the Hiway is better. It does have a better low-end response than many of the cabs though, and is a good conservative choice.

Other cabs

I like to use the Fender 2x12 for my Fender cleans, and for vintage tones, sometimes the G-12H sounds nice, but otherwise, I don't mess with these. Most of them sound thin and harsh, except for the PhD, which sounds a bit lacking in the mids/presence department.

SM 57's

The SM57 on axis is my go-to mic. By itself it can be a little bright, but it works well in a dual cab config when using the XXL as one of the cabs. It can also be EQ'ed to add in the punch and warmth it initially appears to be missing. The reason I like this mic so much is because it seems to have the least amount of noise, so all you hear is rich guitar tone. It can be a little harsh on the high end, but that's easily filtered out by the Mid-Focus EQ. The off axis variant is a little more buzzy than crisp-sounding. On its own it sounds more like a real guitar tone than the on-axis, but with EQ'ing I find they can be quite similar. I prefer the on-axis because the off axis seems to be a touch noisier and less focused in the high end.

Dynamic Mics

The dynamic mics sound a bit more scooped than the SM57's, and can sound a bit more aggressive in the high-end. They're also a little noisier. I prefer the 409, but I occasionally use the 421 but only in a dual cab config.

Other mics

Other mics are too noisy for my tastes. The '67 Condensor isn't bad tonally, but is just too noisy compared to alternatives. I might try these out for a clean or vintage tone, but I ignore them for a modern distorted tone.

Top of Quick Guide

E. Pre-EQ'ing a Distortion tone

More on this here.

The key to getting the best-sounding distortion is pre-EQ'ing the signal before your main distortion stage, which could be a distortion effect, the amp model's pre-amp section, or the amp's power section. In the case of the amp's power section, that means the amp's EQ controls will affect the distortion tone. In the other cases, you'll likely have to add additional effects to the chain.

You can pre-EQ in several ways. The most common are to use Distortion effect as a filter or an EQ effect. To use a Distortion effect in this manner, you simply use low Drive settings. I like using one or more of the Q Filter, Line 6 Drive, Mid-Focus EQ, Parametric EQ, Tube Drive, Screamer, or even Wah Wah effects for this purpose. Other, cruder options are changing the Pod's input impedance settings or adjusting the Guitar's tone knob or changing your pickups.

The distortion tone will be defined mostly by the peak frequency range that hits the distortion stage. The way I like to think about this is going from low frequencies to higher ones, you get flubby, fuzzy, crunchy, djenty, tinny, then splatty distortion. You want to de-emphasize any aspects you don't want and emphasize the ones you do. For metal, that usually means having a nice mid-boost so you don't have any fuzz/flub or tin/grit but do have a solid crunch and djent. Of course, extreme pre-EQ'ing can hurt the tone, shrinking its frequency response causing it to be buried in a mix.

Keep in mind various amps or distortion units will respond differently to pre-EQ'ing than others.

Top of Quick Guide


Date: 2016-01-03; view: 1301


<== previous page | next page ==>
Mono-Summing vs. Stereo Effects | F. Distortion Effects Roundup
doclecture.net - lectures - 2014-2024 year. Copyright infringement or personal data (0.007 sec.)